Thanks to Thomas for sending me a couple of these clips to try out, and sharing his STL files for them! Here are the files for anyone who wants to make themselves a few:
If you don’t have access to a 3D printer, Thomas has made a few extras that he is willing to sell for $15 each plus $5 shipping. You can contact him at rothsteyrclips@gmail.com .
Bloke on the Range badly needed some of these quite recently – would somebody contact him and transfer the Good News?
My thought exactly, the first one that is. The second was Ian and Bloke are mates so I am sure that loop has been closed.
Being able to show all the links you want is one of the huge advantages of the actual “Forgottenweapons.com” website over the derived Forgottenweapons youtube channel, and beside all the archive repository purposes, being able to download “stuff” from here, especially such files, but also manuals etc., is in itself a sufficient justification and great reason to keep the website alive: it has a clear purpose
I wonder if it would be practical to find a metal forming shop to make the main body from sheet metal, and then add the 3d printed thumb piece. Much more expensive, but might possibly solve the bolt dropping issue.
I know/knew of a guy that could make the dies for stamping these. He retired some time ago so I don’t know if he’s still taking on work but he made the dies for Brookville Roadsters.
I think is all will take is a little bit of wear on the first two clips and they’ll operate nice and smooth. You might want to help it along with a fine tool file or fine grit sandpaper.
Last year, I 3D printed a batch of dummy .50 calibre rounds for a Quad-fifty. Now a friend wants 3 joined dummy, .30 rounds to make his M1 Garand rifle legal in Canada. Canadian gun laws limit rifles to 5 round magazines and pistols to 10 round magazines.
5 round garand clips clips are available if that will solve the issue.
https://www.creedmoorsports.com/product/m1-garand-5-round-loading-clip/shop-by-department
Garands are specifically exempted (by name) from the 5 round limit here in Canada. Additionally, the 5 round restriction only applies to semiautomatic firearms. It’s small consolation, but you can own a Lee Enfield or slap a 25 round trench mag on your Mauser without issue.
The M1 Garand does not have a 5 rd limit in Canada. It is one of the few guns that are exempt from that rule.
Warm up the feed lips and bend them a little. So the problem will be solved.
Piece of cake. Like stealing candies from a baby !
Have you ever actually stolen a candy from an infant?
No. I just sold the bicycle to buy… the pump !
Wow. Well done. Perhaps Thomas would be intersred in printng some 5 round Berthier clips, or some 1895 Mannlicher clips. I know I would supply a ready market for him.
Ian,
Outstanding.
Thank you.
Q
3-D printers are not common yet, but there’s probably more out there than there are 1907 Roth-Steyrs. 🙂
And just to insult anti-gun politicians, 3D-printing is not merely pressing buttons and then magically getting a product out of thin air. To use a 3D printer, you need a computer interface, some actual knowledge on operating the interfacing software, materials to feed the printer, and some product specifications (dimensions and whatnot). Failure of the user to comprehend basic math will possibly result in the printer killing itself and frying the computer in the process. Oh, and from what I know, 3D printers are hardly considered cheap hardware. Yes, this is mere exaggeration.
This year. Next year, who knows?
If you rescale the pusher block to 9.9 x 19.4 x 12.5mm, it fits perfectly onto Steyr M1912 clips loaded with 7 rounds instead of 8.
The M1912 is already very smooth with clips, but this makes it even slicker and eliminates any last round fumble.
I can’t tell what layer height settings and quality are with these prints, but there may be some warping that can be overcome with fiber reinforced material (I find all fiber reinforced materials tends to be more dimensionally stable both when printing and as it ages.) Also I find that if you print with extreme settings (such as really low layer height maybe .1mm) and at very slow speeds (such as 10mm a second) especially with something more like a core xy rather than the more common I3you can get more accurate prints as well. If you would like to experiment with this part some drop me a line.
¿Can you give a link to the supplier? (Maybe not here, maybe on FG[dot]com…) I’d like to order one partially for spite (fuckyoutube) and partially to show support for “the type of people who are in this industry.”
I derped (and OH, so hard), please just deleted the comment.
im confused. you said on the last one you held the bolt back and then it worked. it seems you forgot you held the bolt back on the last stripper?
I had been wondering about this for a while, it is already being by used in the collector car realm for parts that simply do not exist anymore. Also, for I wonder how much a shop would charge for these to be metal printed
Metal printing is wildly more expensive than Fdm. But if you really want to know and have a cad model or in this case a stl file you can get an automated quote for that sort of thing online…
Problem is that Metal 3D printing now has at least 3-4 major variations of method, each with their own advantages and disadvantages. None of which mesh well with replacing Sheet metal or even FDM printing just by copying the existing part. So you’d be getting pot luck on if it’s achievable on their machine.
Markforged with their Metal X is probably the closest to being usable in a small shop manufacturing limited replacement parts, but that’s a long (print time, plus 12-18 hr wash and 24 hour bake), expensive process that isn’t really well suited for small thin objects. And that’s assuming you can CAD the part correctly to get your final tolerances correct post heat treatment.
Very well said. If you believe Markforged’s claims (having heard them in person, lol) they have the problem of dimentional change (that is shrinkage to oversimplify) figured out completely. YMMV but I also agree with you that their solution while maybe problematic in it’s own right is the best solution that I have seen for a small shop. I would also claim from some experience that getting creative and being smart at the modeling level you can work some good ‘magic’ with some cad/cam Kentucky wind-age so to speak.
“(…)collector car realm(…)”
3D scanning was used successfully recently to create CAR ZERO
https://www.bentleymotors.com/en/models/mulliner/classic/bentley-blower-continuation-series.html
which is 1929 Bentley Blower look-a-like
Thanks Ian!
I laughed heartily.
Great start to the day.
I think it is quite possible to make a clip from a clip for 30 carbines. The follower can be done on a printer.
Novel use for 3D printing is for low volume sheet metal bending dies, I’ve seen it being used for small scale ultralight aircraft manufacturing. Instead of getting custom dies manufactured they’re 3D printed and replaced after they start to wear/fail. Also given the fact that the clips are going for $400 it might be worth while to buy a clip printed in sintered metal at that cost.
That is also a growing trend for this technology. Also hydro-forming is also (to a much more limited extant) seeing some low cost FDM printing successfully pressed into service to make parts. I like the innovation be if you are going to use thermoplastic for your dies (or forms, I am a hydro forming newbie) you will find limits as the compression strength is limited in those materials (even the wonderfully stringy and difficult to print PEEK.)
Ian,
Does the square button (that locks open the bolt) on your Roth M-1907 not function?
Seems odd that you struggled so attempting to hold the pistole and the bolt off the stripper clip when the button could be used to keep the bolt held open auto-magically.
I want to buy some